Frequently asked questions.

Most homes are finished in one to two days. A handful of windows can be done in a morning; a large home with a lot of glass, or a commercial building, gets scheduled in phases so no room or floor is out of use for long. Your rep gives you the actual timeline at the on-site quote, not an estimate over the phone.

You need to let the crew in and be reachable, but you do not need to hover. We work room by room, move what needs moving and put it back, and clean up as we go. For commercial jobs we work evenings and weekends so nobody loses a business day.

Yes, and no. A rep comes out, measures every pane in scope, looks at your actual exposures and glass type, brings physical film samples so you can hold them against your own windows, and leaves you with a written number. There is no charge for that and no obligation. There is a $500 minimum per job if you decide to go ahead.

Yes. Quality film comes off cleanly by a professional, which is one of the reasons it works for rentals, second homes and offices you may reconfigure. It is not a permanent modification to the window, and it does not void a typical glass warranty when the correct film is specified for the glass type.

It is quoted per window after the on-site measure, because the price depends on pane size, access, glass type and which film you choose. There is a $500 minimum per job. We do not publish a per-square-foot number because it would be misleading on the two-story stairwell window and wrong on the small bathroom pane. See the pricing page for how the number is built.

Our top solar films reject up to 71% of total solar energy and up to 96% of infrared heat. The number that matters for your house depends on which film goes on which window — a west-facing great room usually gets a higher-rejection film than a north-facing bedroom that has no heat problem to solve.

Typically 10–30% off cooling costs in summer and 10–20% off heating with a Low-E film in winter, with most projects paying for themselves in about two to three years. Those are ranges rather than promises: your actual saving depends on your glass area, orientation, insulation, HVAC efficiency and how you set the thermostat.

Usually yes, and this surprises people. A modern low-E double-pane unit is a good insulator, but insulation addresses conducted heat. It does much less about radiant solar energy coming through the glass and heating your floor and furniture directly. Film addresses exactly the part the window does not, which is why brand-new houses still have great rooms that overheat.

Every film we install blocks 99% of ultraviolet light, including the clear one that makes no visible change to the glass. UV is the largest single cause of fading in floors, fabric, art and merchandise, and Utah sees a heavier dose than most states because of elevation.

It dramatically slows it. Fading is driven mostly by UV, which film removes almost entirely, but visible light and heat contribute too and no film blocks all visible light without making the room dark. Realistically, film takes fading from a problem you notice in a few years to one you may never notice.

Only if you choose a film that does. The lineup runs from Sleek Clear UV, which is essentially invisible, up to Sleek Mirror at 5% visible light transmission. Most homeowners land on a spectrally selective film that rejects a lot of heat while keeping the room bright and the exterior neutral. You see samples on your own glass before deciding.

During the day, yes — that is exactly how reflective and dual-reflective films work, using the light difference between a bright outside and a darker inside. After dark that difference reverses: once your interior lights are on and it is dark outside, a reflective film no longer gives privacy. For round-the-clock privacy you want a frosted or blackout film instead. We would rather tell you that up front than have you discover it at night.

Most will, but some Utah HOAs and Summit County design committees restrict exterior reflectivity. Mention your community at the quote and we will specify a neutral or dual-reflective film that reads as ordinary tinted glass from the street. We would rather select around the rule than have you fight it.

No. Film is cut to the pane and installed wet; a small amount of moisture haze is normal for a few days to a few weeks while it cures, and then it is gone. If a pane still shows bubbles, edge lift or debris after curing, that is an installation defect and the lifetime warranty covers it — we come back and redo it.

Both the film and our labor, for as long as you own the property. That covers bubbling, peeling, cracking, delamination and colour change. If any of it happens, we come back and redo the affected glass at no cost. The warranty is written and you get a copy on completion, not a verbal assurance.

Wait about 30 days after installation for the film to fully cure, then clean normally with a soft cloth or squeegee and any non-abrasive glass cleaner. Avoid ammonia-heavy products, scrub pads and blades. That is the whole maintenance routine — there is nothing to reapply or top up.

Adding film changes how a pane absorbs and sheds heat, so on the wrong glass type it can raise thermal stress. That is why we identify your glass at the quote and specify a film rated for it, and why we will decline a specific pane rather than take the job and hope. We also offer an optional glass breakage protection add-on that covers your windows in the rare event thermal stress causes a crack after installation.

Quality film on residential glass typically performs for 15 to 20 years or more, and our warranty runs for as long as you own the property rather than a fixed term. What kills cheap film early is dye-based construction that fades to purple; the films we install use metallised and ceramic constructions that do not.

That is the normal arrangement. We schedule after hours, on weekends, or floor-by-floor and zone-by-zone so the space stays in use during business hours. For retail we work around your open hours rather than asking you to close.

Yes. For multi-site portfolios we build a rollout schedule across every location rather than quoting the one that called, so specification, appearance and documentation stay consistent across the estate.

On completion you get the warranty and full product documentation — film specification, performance data and glass compatibility — in a form you can hand straight to your risk, facilities or compliance file.

Security film does not make glass unbreakable; it holds a broken pane together so there is no opening to climb through. In practice that turns a one-strike entry into a sustained, loud, multi-minute effort, and most attempts are abandoned inside a minute. Thicker film buys more delay: 4 mil is a real safety upgrade and 15 mil with an attachment system is a serious deterrent.